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Africa revisited, past wanderings through the beautiful continent
Travelling for work and for pleasure, I’ve been lucky to have had the opportunity to visit several African countries: north, south, east and west. Some of the most extraordinary cultures, peoples,...
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Rwanda, Land of a Thousand Hills
Perhaps the most bewildering thing about Rwanda, is just how ordinary and normal it feels when you travel around the country. It’s history, and the genocide which was perpetuated on its people, looms...
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Bearing witness, memorials to the Rwandan Genocide
“In 100 days, more than 1,000,000 people were murdered. But the genocidaires did not kill a million people. They killed one, then another, then another…day after day, hour after hour, minute by minute....
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The Rwandan Genocide, Nyamata and Ntarama Memorial Sites
‘Genocide Tourism’ wasn’t a term I’d heard before visiting Rwanda. The very idea is enough to send a shiver down the spine but, after visiting the Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali, I felt it was...
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Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park
Rising early in the half light of dawn, I stumbled around my cabin on the outskirts of Ruhengeri, the closest town to the magical Volcanoes National Park. I hadn’t slept well, the night was filled with...
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Rwanda’s glorious Mountain Gorillas
There is something emblematic about the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda. They have become cherished symbols of hope for a nation so recently torn apart by genocide – not to mention being significant...
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Ruhengeri and Lake Burera
Most people visit Ruhengeri (which is also known as Musanze) because it’s a convenient place to base yourself before heading into the Volcanoes National Park for gorilla tracking. While the town itself...
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Taking your life in your hands in Gisenyi
Lake Kivu is beautiful. A vast and tranquil ocean-sized lake set amidst wonderful scenery. At the Rwandan lakeside town of Gisenyi there are beaches, delicious fresh fish to eat and cold Primus beer to...
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Kibuye: Land of a Thousand Islands, in the Land of a Thousand Hills
Rwanda, with good reason, is known as the Land of a Thousand Hills. Every part of the country I passed through involved a journey on twisting roads, through mountainous landscapes. In fact, the whole...
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Kibuye, home of the spectacular sunset
I was only able to spend two nights in Kibuye, but on both occasions I was treated to amazing sunsets. On my first night I went over to the Centre Bethanie, a guesthouse a short walk from where I was...
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